Pääkirjoitus 2/2016: Sykkivä, alati muuttuva Berliini

Berlin

Tämän lehden teema, Berliini, on nyky-Euroopan pääkaupungeista nähnyt varmasti eniten. Se kiinnostaa Euroopassa juuri nyt, kuten koko Saksa, esimerkiksi talouskehityksen ja turvapaikanhakijatulvan kannalta. Moni muu maa ottanee siitä mallia. Tässä Berliinin kaupunkiin keskittyvässä numerossa emme silti puutu kuin vain sivuten turvapaikanhakijoihin tai vaikkapa Saksan liittokansleriin Angela Merkeliin.

Kuten tunnettua, toisen maailmansodan jälkeen Berliinistä muodostui Saksan demokraattisen tasavallan, DDR:n, Itä-Saksan pääkaupunki aina sen hajoamiseen vuoteen 1990 saakka. I
tä- ja Länsi-Saksan kesken kahtia jaettu kaupunki alkaa vasta nyt, yli kahdenkymmenen vuoden kuluttua muurin murtumisesta, näyttää yhtenäiseltä. Muualla Saksassa vaivaavat vielä ongelmat, joita kahtiajako ja sen puutteellinen jälkihoito aiheuttivat: esimerkiksi tulo- ja varallisuuserot sekä rasismi.

Berliini nousi jälleen vuonna 1990 yhdistyneen Saksan pääkaupungiksi, ja siitä on muodostunut monen mielessä mystinen ehkä tunkkaisenkin reaalisosialismin jäänne, mutta myös trendikäs kaupunki, jonka ilmapiiriä himoitsee varsinkin loputon lista luovien alojen ihmisiä – graafikkoja, kuvataiteilijoita, muusikkoja. Lista on loputon. Berliiniä pidetään myös nykypäivän hipsterien hittinä. Sitä se varmasti onkin, mahtavan monipuolisen kulttuuritarjontansa, ”retroretkeilyn” mahdollisuuden ja ennen kaikkea uutta synnyttävän elinvoimaisuuden ansiosta.

Saksan jälleensyntyneen pääkaupungin vetovoiman voi hyvin myös tulkita Berliinin muurin murtumisen jälkeisen vapauden tunteen fyysiseksi ilmentymäksi. Muurin murruttua esimerkiksi tekno soi entisen Itä-Berliinin melkein kaikissa tyhjiksi jääneissä taloissa, kaupoista sai jälleen kaikkea rajoituksetta; Stasin – DDR:n vakoilu-, tiedustelu- ja ilmiantojärjestelmän – valvovan silmän alla eläneet itäsaksalaiset todella osasivat vapautua ja iloita. Kaupungista kasvoi myös nopeasti Euroopan queer-piirien mekka. Vapauden olemus on kantanut näihin päiviin ja maine kiirinyt muihin maihin. Berliini on aina muutoksen tilassa.

Kaupungin asukkaat ja sen kaupunginosat, jotka elivät vuosikymmeniä heitä toisistaan erottaneen muurin varjossa, ovat sulautuneet jälleen yhteen; alueellisia eroja ei enää ole kuin kuriositeetteina. Esimerkkinä jaetusta kaupungista ovat Itä-Berliinistä säilyneet Ampelmann-liikennevalot, jotka berliiniläiset itse halusivat säilyttää. Muuria on vain palanen jäljellä ja sekin vain koristeltuna turistinähtävyytenä. Itä-Berliinistä muistuttaa monia kävijöitä enää Alexanderplatzin ylväs televisiotorni. Muut sosialistisen valtion maamerkit, kuten arkkitehtuurisesti arvokas DDR:n parlamenttitalo Palast der Republik, on jyrätty sosialismin merkkejä siivotessa.

Vaikka tiedämme Itä-Berliinissä osin vallinneen kurjuuden ja ihmisoikeusrikkomukset, siellä eläneet eivät voi viedä muistojaan pois. Itä-Berliinissä on synnytty, kasvettu, eletty. Monet DDR:n kasvateista haluaisivat vaalia tätä muistoa, jota nyt katsotaan vain yhdestä näkövinkkelistä: tekemällä suorastaan pilkkaa sosialistisen valtion pääkaupungista, ”väkivallan ja kylmän sodan näyttämöstä”, vaikka arkielämässä se oli paljon muutakin. Tällekin on suotava tilansa historiassa.

Yhdentyminen ei ole sujunut aivan niin mallikkaasti kuin kaukaa katsoen on voinut näyttää. Vasta 2000-luvulla yhdentyneen Saksan liittokansleriksi nousi Itä-Saksan kasvatti, Angela Merkel, kristillisdemokraattisen puolueen puheenjohtaja. Nyt käynnissä oleva kansainvaellus näyttää, kuinka Merkelin käy lähestyvissä vaaleissa. 
Yhtä kaikki, Berliini pysyy, aina muuttuvana ja alati vastaanottavaisena.

Rautakansleriksikin nimetyn Merkelin humaani suhtautuminen turvapaikanhakijoihin Saksassa on haaste myös Berliinille. Toivottavasti liittokansleri pysyy solidaarisessa otteessaan ja kansa sen takana, eikä äärioikeisto saa enää koskaan sijaa Saksassakaan, jossa vielä lähimuistissa on sen äärimmäisen julmat seuraukset. Jokaisen eurooppalaisen valtion on taisteltava ja sanottava selkeä ei fasististen ja äärioikeistolaisten liikkeiden nousulle.

© Teksti: Juha Säijälä / Kulttuurivihkot

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